The jewelry narrative of Catherine, Princess of Wales, differs significantly from the royal women who preceded her. While Queen Elizabeth II relied on a static vault of priceless heirlooms and Princess Diana used jewelry as a tool of rebellion and personal expression, the Princess of Wales has curated a collection that functions as a bridge between the ancient institution of monarchy and the modern world. Her earring collection, in particular, illustrates a strategic duality: it oscillates between the "high" historical loans of incalculable value and the "low" accessible, demi-fine pieces that connect her to the public. This careful calibration allows her to project majesty at state banquets while remaining relatable during school visits.
The Bridal Commission: The Oak Leaf and Acorn
The genesis of her royal collection began not with a loan from the Crown, but with a private commission from her parents for her wedding in 2011. Unlike royal brides of the past who often wore historic diamonds, the then-Catherine Middleton chose to wear a new pair of diamond earrings that represented her own lineage before she merged it with the Windsors.
The design was deeply symbolic, rooted in the Middleton family coat of arms. The earrings feature a stylized oak leaf paved in diamonds, from which suspends a diamond-encrusted acorn. The oak tree is a traditional symbol of England and strength, but specifically references the oak trees surrounding the Middleton family home in Berkshire. By wearing the acorn the seed of the oak she signaled the potential of her new role and the dynasty she would help secure. The earrings were designed to articulate and move, complementing the light, "halo" effect of the Scroll Tiara she wore on her wedding day. They remain one of the few significant pieces of jewelry that belong entirely to her, representing the commoner roots she brought into the royal fold.
The Diana Inheritance: Sapphires and Pearls
Upon her marriage, the Princess gained access to the personal jewelry of her late mother-in-law, Diana, Princess of Wales. The most visible of these inheritances is the Sapphire and Diamond Suite. These earrings were originally a wedding gift to Diana from the Crown Prince of Saudi Arabia. In their original 1980s form, they were double-drop earrings: a diamond stud suspending a sapphire, which in turn suspended a second, larger sapphire.
The modern Princess of Wales, however, chose to modify them, demonstrating her more understated aesthetic. She removed the top sapphire element, wearing them as a simplified "single drop" design. These earrings are frequently worn to match her engagement ring, serving as a constant visual link to the memory of Diana. They are often utilized for diplomatic engagements where the color blue is significant, or for anniversaries, subtly reinforcing the continuity of the line of succession.
Equally significant are the Collingwood Pearl Earrings. These were a wedding gift to Diana from the firm of Collingwood jewelers. They feature a classic diamond stud from which hangs a large, lustrous pearl drop. Diana wore them constantly; for the current Princess, they have become a staple for "dressy but not state" occasions, such as garden parties or foreign tours. Their classic teardrop shape perfectly frames the face, offering a softness that the sharper diamond geometric pieces lack.
The Queen's Vault: The Architecture of Mourning and State
For the most solemn occasions, the Princess of Wales turns to the collection of the late Queen Elizabeth II. The most poignant of these loans are the Bahrain Pearl Drop Earrings. These were crafted from a cache of seven magnificent natural pearls given to Princess Elizabeth as a wedding gift by the Hakim of Bahrain in 1947.
The design is strictly mid-century, featuring a round diamond stud, a line of baguette diamonds, and the pearl drop. The Princess of Wales has designated these as her primary "mourning jewelry." She famously wore them to the funeral of Prince Philip in 2021 and the state funeral of Queen Elizabeth II in 2022. The choice was semiotically potent: wearing the Queen’s own wedding pearls to mourn her death created a narrative circle, honoring the monarch's life from marriage to grave.
At the opposite end of the spectrum lies the Greville Chandelier Earrings. These are among the most valuable earrings in the royal vault, bequeathed to the Queen Mother by the society hostess Dame Margaret Greville in 1942. They are distinctively Art Deco, featuring a complex geometric cascade of diamonds in various cuts, pears, baguettes, and trapezoids. They are notably long and heavy, rarely worn by the late Queen. The Princess of Wales, however, has revived them for high-glamour moments, such as the royal wedding in Jordan. By wearing these, she signals her readiness to adopt the "heavy" majesty required of a future Queen, moving away from delicate floral motifs to imposing architectural designs.
The "Demi-Fine" Revolution: Colored Gemstones
A unique aspect of the Princess’s collection is her extensive use of "demi-fine" jewelry pieces made of gold vermeil and semi-precious stones rather than platinum and diamonds. This section of her jewelry box is dominated by cushion-cut drops in candy-colored hues.
She frequently wears Green Amethyst (Prasiolite) earrings, often framed by diamonds, for Christmas church services. The pale green stone offers a softer alternative to emeralds. Similarly, she utilizes Citrine drops for their warm, amber glow, often pairing them with brown or neutral coats. These items are modern, wearable, and attainable, allowing her to appear polished without the distancing effect of priceless royal heirlooms. They function as her "working uniform," appropriate for hospital visits or charity engagements where flashing large diamonds might be deemed insensitive.
The High Street Statement: The Democratization of Design
Perhaps the most radical move in her jewelry strategy has been the introduction of mass-market fashion jewelry onto the red carpet. In a stark departure from royal protocol, the Princess has notably worn oversized, floral-shaped metal earrings from accessible high-street retailers to major events like the BAFTAs.
For example, at the 2019 BAFTAs, she paired a couture designer gown with a pair of inexpensive, floral chandelier earrings made of base metal and rhinestones. In 2023, she wore a pair of cascading floral earrings made of fabric and metal to the same event. This "high-low" mixing is a deliberate strategy. It acknowledges the economic reality of the British public during a cost-of-living crisis, demonstrating that elegance does not require immense expenditure. It also serves to modernize the image of the Princess, aligning her with the fashion habits of the younger generation who mix luxury goods with fast fashion.
The Transformation of the South Sea Pearls
Finally, the Princess’s usage of the South Sea Pearl and Diamond Earrings illustrates her ability to reconfigure history. These earrings, inherited from Diana, feature a complex diamond knot or horseshoe design from which a large South Sea pearl is suspended. Diana often wore them with the pearls.
The Princess of Wales, however, famously wore these to the BAFTAs in a "re-imagined" form, swapping the original pearl drops for different ones or altering the suspension mechanism to create a sleeker look. This willingness to take apart and reconstruct historic suites (much like Queen Mary before her) suggests that she is not merely a passive wearer of jewels, but an active curator, reshaping the collection to fit the streamlined, professional aesthetic of the 21st-century monarchy.
The earring collection of the Princess of Wales is a study in balance. It honors the past through the Bahrain Pearls and the Collingwood drops, asserts her own identity through the Oak Leaf wedding earrings, and acknowledges the modern world through her use of citrine drops and high-street metals. Unlike the fixed parures of the 19th century, her collection is fluid and adaptive, perfectly calibrated to the demands of a modern constitutional monarchy where the visual image must be at once regal, respectful, and relatable.
