To examine the jewelry box of Queen Elizabeth II is to engage in a study of European royal genealogy, the collapse of empires, and the subtle language of matriarchal succession. While the Sovereign’s official regalia represents the state, her brooches often functioned as personal totems, mapping the trajectory of her life and the lives of the women who preceded her. The specific selection of the Richmond Brooch, the Romanov sapphires, and the matriarchal heirlooms of the Queen Mother creates a narrative thread that weaves together the zenith of the British Empire, the tragedy of the Russian Revolution, and the domestic stability of the post-war Windsor era. These objects were not merely decorative; they were historic documents rendered in diamond, pearl, and sapphire.
The Romanov Connection: Empress Marie Feodorovna’s Sapphire Brooch
Among the most historically charged items in the royal collection is the Empress Marie Feodorovna Sapphire Brooch. Its provenance traces directly to the twilight of the Russian Imperial Court. Originally, this piece was a wedding gift presented in 1866 to Princess Dagmar of Denmark (later Empress Marie Feodorovna) by her future husband, Tsarevich Alexander (later Tsar Alexander III of Russia).
The design is archetypal of mid-19th-century Russian aesthetics, favoring a massive, geometric impact over delicate lacework. The focal point is a cabochon sapphire of substantial carat weight, exhibiting a deep, luminous blue saturation characteristic of Ceylon or Burmese origins, though the exact gemological classification remains in the archives. This central stone is framed by two rows of diamonds: an inner border of smaller brilliants and an outer, sunburst-style border of larger cut diamonds. A single, perfectly symmetrical pearl drop hangs from the base, adding kinetic movement to the piece.
The historical journey of this brooch is as significant as its composition. Following the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917, Empress Marie Feodorovna escaped Russia aboard a British warship, carrying a small selection of her jewelry, the remnants of the immense Romanov wealth. After her death in exile in 1928, her jewelry was sold by her daughters to the British Royal Family, specifically to Queen Mary, who was the Empress's niece. For Queen Elizabeth II, wearing this brooch was a potent nod to her Russian ancestry and the survival of dynastic links despite political cataclysms. She often utilized it for diplomatic engagements involving Russia or Denmark, using the jewel to silently acknowledge the shared lineage of the European royal houses.
The Bridal Legacy: Queen Alexandra’s Wedding Brooch
Predating the Russian acquisition is a piece that represents the foundation of the modern British royal aesthetic: Queen Alexandra’s Wedding Brooch. Presented to Princess Alexandra of Denmark by the Prince of Wales (the future King Edward VII) prior to their marriage in 1863, this item is a textbook example of high Victorian jewelry making.
The brooch forms part of a larger parure (a matching set of jewelry) but stands alone as a masterpiece of symmetry. It features three large, drop-shaped pearls suspended from diamond-encrusted arches and swags. The use of button pearls and the heavy reliance on silver-topped gold settings date the piece firmly to the 1860s. Unlike the lighter, platinum-based jewelry of the 20th century, this brooch possesses a visual and physical weight. Queen Elizabeth II regarded this piece as a quintessential "Queen’s jewel," wearing it sparingly and usually for evening events where its scale could be balanced by the sash of an order or heavy velvet fabrics. It serves as a direct link to the longest-serving Princess of Wales in history, carrying with it the legacy of the Victorian court’s grandeur.
The Richmond Brooch: A Symbol of Union and Mourning
Few pieces in the Queen’s collection illustrate the versatility of antique jewelry as effectively as the Richmond Brooch. This substantial piece was a wedding gift to Princess Victoria Mary of Teck (later Queen Mary) in 1893, presented by the town of Richmond, an area in West London where her family had lived in exile-like frugality for years.
The design is a large, scrolling diamond framework centered around a sizable pearl, with a second, pear-shaped pearl and diamond pendant that is detachable. The craftsmanship allows the wearer to remove the lower pendant, transforming the piece from a formal stomacher brooch into a slightly more manageable ornament. Queen Mary, known for her "magpie" tendency to accumulate and reconfigure jewels, wore it frequently. However, it was Queen Elizabeth II who imbued it with modern poignancy. Most notably, she selected this brooch for the funeral of her husband, Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, in 2021. By wearing a wedding gift (albeit her grandmother’s) to say farewell to her husband of 73 years, she utilized the brooch’s historical association with matrimonial union to make a private statement in a public sphere. The Richmond Brooch thus evolved from a civic gift into a symbol of enduring love and final separation.
The Teck Inheritance: The Teck Corsage Brooch
The Teck Brooch, often identified as the Teck Corsage or the Teck Circle Brooch, serves as a reminder of the "poor relation" origins of Queen Mary’s family, the Tecks, who eventually rose to the pinnacle of the monarchy. Inherited from Mary Adelaide, Duchess of Teck, this piece is a masterclass in diamond engineering.
It features a central large diamond surrounded by a complex lattice of diamond scrolls and floral motifs, often described as a "diamond wheel." The setting is designed to capture maximum light, making it one of the most brilliant pieces in the collection despite the absence of colored gemstones. The visual language of the Teck Brooch is one of imposing formality. It does not possess the whimsical nature of later 20th-century pieces; rather, it asserts status. Queen Elizabeth II frequently wore this on state visits, particularly on the sash of the Order of the Garter. Its circular shape and rigid structure convey a sense of completeness and unbroken continuity, aligning perfectly with the role of the constitutional monarch as a stabilizing force.
The Matriarchal Tribute: The Queen Mother’s Shell Brooch
Moving into the 20th century, the collection softens with the Courtauld Thomson Scallop-Shell Brooch, known affectionately as the Queen Mother’s Shell Brooch. Designed in 1919 and bequeathed to Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother by the writer Winifred Hope Thomson in 1944, this piece became a signature item for the Queen Mother, who wore it famously on her 100th birthday celebrations.
The brooch is a literal interpretation of a scallop shell, paved entirely in diamonds with a single, lustrous pearl set at the bottom edge, mimicking the ocean’s treasure. The scallop shell has long been a symbol of pilgrimage (specifically the Way of St. James), but in the context of the Windsor women, it represents longevity and the "favorite" status. When Queen Elizabeth II inherited it upon her mother's death in 2002, she began wearing it for events that had a direct connection to her parents, such as the unveiling of the statue of the Queen Mother. The piece is distinct from the Victorian heirlooms; it is less about the weight of the crown and more about the personal bond between mother and daughter. Its fluid, organic lines contrast sharply with the rigid geometry of the Romanov or Teck pieces.
The Post-War Blossom: The Flower Basket Brooch
Finally, the Flower Basket Brooch represents the personal optimism of the post-war era. Given to the then Princess Elizabeth by her parents (King George VI and Queen Elizabeth) in November 1948 to celebrate the birth of her first child, Prince Charles, this piece is undeniably sentimental.
The design is colorful and charming, deviating from the serious, all-diamond aesthetic of the official state jewels. It depicts a basket woven of diamonds, filled with flowers made of rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. It encapsulates the joy of a young family and the succession secured by the birth of an heir. Historically, its significance is cemented by the first official photographs of the newborn Prince Charles, where the young Princess Elizabeth is seen wearing this specific brooch. Throughout her seventy-year reign, the Queen continued to wear the Flower Basket, often for milder, less formal engagements or televised Christmas broadcasts. It stood as a reminder of her role as a mother, distinct from her role as Sovereign, offering a glimpse into the private life of the woman behind the Crown.
