In the iconography of the British Monarchy, few elements are as consistent or as symbolically charged as the pearl. While diamonds represent the permanence and hardness of the state, utilized for coronations and grand diplomatic receptions, pearls function as the daily uniform of the Sovereign. For Queen Elizabeth II, pearls were not merely accessories; they were an extension of her official persona, projecting an image of calm, fastidious continuity. Over the course of her seventy-year reign, her specific rotation of pearl necklaces and earrings formed a visual vocabulary that bridged the Victorian era of her grandmother, Queen Mary, and the modern media age. The collection is a mixture of ancient natural pearls, biological accidents of immense rarity and diplomatic gifts that chronicle the geopolitical shifts of the 20th century.
The Daily Uniform: The Three-Strand Pearl Necklaces
The defining image of Queen Elizabeth II is incomplete without the inclusion of a Three-Strand Pearl Necklace. This item was more than jewelry; it was a component of her "working clothes," worn almost daily for official engagements, audiences with Prime Ministers, and televised broadcasts.
The Queen possessed not one, but three distinct versions of this necklace, which she rotated to prevent wear and tear on the delicate silk stringing. The most sentimental of these was a gift from her grandfather, King George V, presented to her for his Silver Jubilee in 1935. At the time, the young Princess Elizabeth was only nine years old. The King commissioned the necklace using graduated, natural pearls, ensuring the strand sat perfectly against the collarbone. The gradation where the pearls are largest in the center and taper towards the clasp is a hallmark of early 20th-century design. The consistency with which she wore this necklace created a sense of immutability; while fashions, hemlines, and governments changed around her, the triple strand of pearls remained a constant anchor, symbolizing the unwavering nature of her duty.
The Historic Anchors: The Queen Anne and Queen Caroline Pearl Necklaces
While the three-strand necklace was her daily choice, the Queen Anne and Queen Caroline Pearl Necklaces represent the deepest historical roots of the collection. Often referred to in the plural, these are actually two separate necklaces of natural pearls that are traditionally worn together as a pair (creating a two-strand effect).
The provenance of these pearls is exceptional. The Queen Anne Necklace consists of forty-six large, spherical pearls and originally belonged to the last Stuart monarch, Queen Anne, in the early 18th century. The Queen Caroline Necklace, comprising fifty slightly smaller pearls, belonged to Caroline of Ansbach, the consort of King George II. These are distinct from modern cultured pearls; as natural saltwater specimens formed in the Persian Gulf centuries ago, they possess a unique, deep luster and slight irregularities that certify their organic origin.
This pair holds a legendary place in the personal history of Queen Elizabeth II due to the "wedding day panic" of 1947. The Princess had chosen to wear these ancient heirlooms to anchor her wedding dress. However, the necklaces had been left at St. James's Palace among the wedding gifts, while the bride was dressing at Buckingham Palace. A private secretary was dispatched to retrieve them, having to commandeer a police motorcycle to cut through the crowds. The necklaces arrived just in time, allowing the future Queen to walk down the aisle wearing pearls that had adorned the necks of Queens for over two hundred years. The visual weight of the two strands is significantly heavier than her daily pearls, signaling an event of state or dynastic magnitude.
The Diplomatic Innovation: The Japanese Pearl Choker
Moving away from the traditional graduated strands, the Japanese Pearl Choker represents a more modern, structured aesthetic. This piece owes its existence to the Queen’s first State Visit to Japan in 1975. During the visit, the Japanese government presented the Monarch with a set of the finest cultured pearls, a product for which Japan had become world-renowned.
Rather than commissioning a standard long necklace, the Queen ordered the creation of a four-strand choker. The design is complex and geometric, constructed to sit high on the throat. The four rows of pearls are kept in rigid formation by vertical diamond bars, preventing them from tangling. The focal point is a central diamond clasp, shaped in a curved, marquise-like form, which allows the necklace to serve as a piece of evening jewelry.
This choker became a key piece for "loaning" within the family, serving as an intergenerational link. It was famously worn by Diana, Princess of Wales, for a state banquet in the Netherlands in 1982, and later by the Duchess of Cambridge (now the Princess of Wales) for the funeral of Prince Philip and the funeral of the Queen herself. Its design fits the "mourning jewelry" code white and colorless while its backstory highlights the Queen's role in post-war diplomatic reconciliation.
The Wedding Gift: The Ladies of Devonshire Earrings
Among the earrings in the Queen’s vault, few possess the romantic history of the Ladies of Devonshire Earrings. These were a wedding gift to Princess Victoria Mary of Teck (later Queen Mary) in 1893, funded by a subscription raised by the ladies of Devonshire.
The design is classic late-Victorian. Each earring features a diamond-encrusted top in the shape of a stylized shell or scroll, from which suspends a single, large pearl drop. The articulation between the diamond top and the pearl drop allows for movement, catching the light as the wearer turns her head. Queen Elizabeth II inherited these from her grandmother in 1953 and integrated them into her regular rotation. They are slightly more ornamental than simple studs, making them appropriate for daytime events that require a touch of formality, such as garden parties or investitures. The "shell" motif at the top is a subtle nod to the maritime nature of the pearl itself.
The Emblem of Authority: Queen Mary’s Button Earrings
For occasions requiring absolute authority and minimal distraction, the Queen turned to Queen Mary’s Button Earrings. These are known for their imposing simplicity. They consist of a small diamond mounted atop a massive, spherical cultured pearl.
The term "button" refers to the shape of the pearl round with a slightly flattened back, allowing it to sit flush against the earlobe. Queen Mary, who was known for her "magpie" tendency to acquire vast amounts of jewelry, favored these for their scale. On Queen Elizabeth II, they served as a statement piece. Unlike the dangling Devonshire or Bahrain earrings, the Button earrings are static and solid. They were often worn with the Imperial State Crown or heavy hats, as their size ensured they would not be lost visually. They represent the "stiff upper lip" of the jewelry collection: unadorned, substantial, and utterly reliable.
The Marriage Token: The Bahrain Pearl Earrings
Finally, the Bahrain Pearl Earrings are a testament to the richness of the gifts received upon the Queen's marriage in 1947. The Hakim of Bahrain presented the Princess with seven large, unmatched pearls of the highest quality natural pearls from the Persian Gulf, historically the source of the world's most prized specimens.
From these seven loose pearls, two were selected to create a pair of hanging earrings. The design is an elegant study in verticality. A round diamond stud suspends a sequence of three baguette-cut diamonds (rectangular step-cuts), which in turn hold the pearl drop. The use of baguette diamonds introduces an Art Deco geometry to the piece, distinguishing them from the curvier Victorian designs. These earrings were a favorite of the Queen for the early years of her reign and were later notably worn by the Countess of Wessex and the Princess of Wales. Their delicate construction and the provenance of the pearls make them a symbol of the Commonwealth connections that the Queen cultivated throughout her life.
The pearl collection of Queen Elizabeth II was a masterclass in the semiotics of power. While she possessed the world's finest diamonds, she chose pearls for her defining image. From the ancient, natural luster of the Queen Anne and Caroline strands to the geometric precision of the Japanese Choker and the sentimental weight of the Bahrain and Devonshire earrings, these items were not mere decoration. They were the white, luminous thread that ran through the tapestry of her reign, connecting the young bride of 1947 to the matriarch of 2022. In their quiet perfection, they mirrored the Queen’s own approach to her role: consistent, valuable, and enduring.
